by
Simon Espley
Friday, 01 February 2019
“Listen”, says Jean, cupping his ears and staring at the distant horizon. I listened. Nothing, except for that constant muuuuuh muuuuh? muuuuh coming from the wildebeest herds dotted around us, and the constant buzz of birds and insects. Still I listened. Nothing. I looked at him and raised a quizzical eyebrow.
“Exactly”, he said.
You see, the Serengeti can be pretty busy during the Great Wildebeest Migration season, and yet we had been on safari for days without hearing a vehicle, or seeing another soul. This was no private concession; we were in Serengeti National Park. On one occasion, we had watched a pride of lions hunting a herd of cranky old male buffaloes (more about this later) – no other tourists present, despite this being prime tourism season. Huh?
It turns out that the Serengeti is VAST, and there are massive swathes of wilderness that are far away from the roads, and therefore see no tourism traffic. I have seen this during several flights over the Serengeti over the years – miles and miles of open savannah dotted with rocky kopjes and woodland, and rivers snaking through – but no roads or tourists in sight.
I was on a walking and fly-camping safari in these Serengeti wilderness areas. Heaven on Earth.